Restaurant Review: Talianos

For 25 years I have been going to where I believe the finest Italian food in Fort Smith can be found: Talianos. However two recent visits have left me wondering whether it's time to move on to a new purveyor of food from "the boot".

Since my first visit to Talianos I have always stayed with the pasta classics: Spaghetti, Ravioli, and Canneloni. And I was never disappointed. Freshly-made pasta, succulent meat fillings, and a sublime, perfectly-balanced red sauce. Throw in the best homemade blue cheese dressing to be found anywhere and those visits to Talianos were always eagerly anticipated and fondly remembered. But back to the present............

Twice now, and just a few weeks ago most-recently, both a Ravioli and Canneloni dish came to the table with hardly any evidence of the nectar-like red sauce. We were left wondering if the red sauce were on ration or perhaps the chef had deftly plated the dish with a teaspoon. During the first visit we attributed the lack of "sauce" to the fast-paced environment. Or perhaps the table of fifteen adolescents who had all ordered spaghetti and meat sauce before scurrying off to prom with the remants of the red gold still clinging to cumberbuns and lapels. But as the saying goes; "Once is an aberration, twice a trend".

As I mentioned earlier, I usually stick to the classic pastas. However during the last visit I ventured to the left-side of the menu and ordered the Chicken Marsala. The menu describes the dish as "Breast of chicken floured, sauteed in butter, and simmered in a marsala wine sauce with fresh mushrooms and spices". Apparently the term "floured" was lost in translation. Usually in Chicken Marsala the flour is used to create a roux or base to a sauce to which marsala wine, mushrooms, chicken stock, etc. is added. This sauce is then typically reduced or thickened before the chicken is added. However what arrived to the table was a waifer-like fillet of poultry literally swimming in a nearly clear, watery substance that had at some time in its early life held high hopes for becoming a marsala sauce.

Disappointed? Yes. Will we return? Absolutely. Talianos has provided too many good memories to allow one of two less-than-memorable visits keep me away. Besides, any place in Fort Smith which understands Pinot enough to serve the Rodney Strong Russian River variety will always get my business. That and the Tiramisu is among the best to be found.

Bon appetite!!

OFC.